Khao Yai is said to look like something straight Jurassic Park just like so other many national parks in Thailand. We took the recommendation from some friends to stay at Bobby’s hostel, which ended up being a great choice. We opted for a day and a half tour of the park, six girls and our guide Aton (or just Ton). He was a short little guy with tattoos that covered every inch of his body as far as I could tell. He really enjoyed calling everything “sexy”. Sexy girls, sexy guide, sexy waterfalls…everything was considered sexy. He spoke English brilliantly well.
The first night we all sat around talking about teaching and the ups and downs we all go thorough in a single day. It’s nice to hear of similar experiences and new ones that the others encounter in their schools. We also got into our tiffs about the expats who are overpopulating some areas (in our opinion). I just can’t look at old, white, guys with beautiful Thai women and imagine a genuine love connection there. It’s too bad.
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| Our "sexy" guide Ton |
We called it a fairly early night so that we would be well rested for our jungle trek the next day. I was pumped yet skeptical about seeing wildlife such as gibbons and elephants in the jungle since I had read that they are not always easily spotted.
Our day started at 9 am. After the ride to the park we commenced our trek, stomping through leaves off the beaten track. Every so often Ton would make us stop so he could listen, or stop to show us a cinnamon tree or a rubber tree.
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| Gibbon, taken with a large zoom |
The first rare animal we saw was called a hornbill; a huge bird that sounded like a helicopter when it took off because of its massive wingspan. It was almost time to break for lunch and after we were quite tired out when suddenly we came upon a family of black gibbons! They were way up in the canopy and we watched them until our necks got sore and they finally started swinging away through the branches. They are such amazing creatures, and very rare compared to all the “ling” (monkeys) in the park and all over Thailand. After lunch we went to see a waterfall that was used in the scene from The Beach. This was really the only part of our day where we encountered other tourists, two of whom told our guide that they had just come face to face with a wild elephant a little ways into the forest. They scared look on their faces translated into an excited face on our guide and all of a sudden we were scampering through the trees in search of the elephant.
I thought that since I have 50 elephants as my closest neighbors, seeing just one in the wild would be no big deal right? WRONG! It’s like being around dogs all the time and then seeing a wolf in the wild…heart palpitating, and ready to run through the jungle underbrush for my life I just stood and watched the bamboo shacking as if got stopped down. Finally I could see some grey, then a head and two ivory tusks. I think this male was the king of the jungle; he was larger than any on by block.
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| Hello there!!! |
After seeing the elephant we treaded over to the waterfall to take a dip. It was nice and completely secluded from the other tourist and after our initial shock at how frigid the water was, even to our sweaty skin, we all go the courage to bare all and jump in. It was refreshing to get all the dirt and grim off our bodies.

After our numbing swim under the waterfall and attempt to all dry off a bit with one towel, we headed quickly back through the foliage, still on the lookout in case the elephant turned up again. By this time we were all exhausted and the blister that had sprung up on my heel was rubbing me the wrong way. There was no one left on the beaten trail and we were about to reach our ride when all of a sudden Ton leaps back, his arms spread, clutching his machete. We all stop and stare down at the path directly in front of us. There, wearing camouflage that matched perfectly with the leaves was a long brown snake. Ton was pretty damn close to stepping on the thing! He starts freaking out and all of a sudden I hear him say “crobar!” “Um, excuse me what’s that?” “Most poisonous snake, the king crobar!” “OH. Mygod. It’s a King cobra. Just when I thought our day could not get any more exciting. I had taken a picture of one of these in the park museum, but this one was alive, not coiled in formaldehyde… our driver didn’t even believe Ton when he told him until we showed him a picture!
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| Young King Cobra |
After a delicious dinner or masaman curry and some tea, and after zoning out and watching An Education for a bit on the TV, we all crashed. What a spectacular, extraordinary day.
The next day Ton took us to this temple that is literally built into a mountain and there is a cave inside where Buddhists go to meditate and pry. Every inch of this this was covered in the Buddha image and medallions. It was so gaudy and over the top that it actually worked, it was spectacular. There were many photographs hanging of a monk who looked like he had been all around the world and who is special to this particular temple, at least I think that's what Ton said. Well when we were almost ready to leave, we look into this room and there is the monk, just about to eat lunch, the same one who is in the photos. He invites us to sit down and welcomes us to Thailand by giving us each a beaded bracelet from a bag. In Thailand you mush always stay lower than a monk and also never touch their hands or clothes. This monk seemed very carefree and had a childlike glimmer in his eyes. He explained to us why meditation is so important and led us in a ten minute silent meditation. It was a real treat to be able to do something like that.
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| The very top of the temple |
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| Inside the cave |
Following that tour, we briefly stopped to bathe "Thai-style" (fully clothed even if you are wearing jeans, which of course none of us were, but many Thais do) at a natural spring. After climbing through the temple and walking around in the powerful sun, it was a welcomed treat to cool off. Because of work obligations the next day we were unable to visit the bat cave that is usually included in the tour, but mai pen rai, maybe next time.